What is a Tussar Silk Saree? Types, Drape, and Styling

There's a particular kind of saree that manages to look both rustic and refined at the same time. That's the Tussar silk saree. With its characteristic golden-beige color, slightly coarse texture, and natural sheen, the Tussar silk saree is unlike any other silk fabric. If you've been curious about what makes it special, where it comes from, and whether it's right for you, this guide has all your answers.

What is Tussar Silk?

Tussar silk (also spelled Tasar, Tassar, or Tussah) is a type of wild silk produced by the silkworm Antheraea mylitta. Unlike the more common mulberry silk (produced by the Bombyx mori worm, which is fed cultivated mulberry leaves), Tussar silkworms feed on wild trees like Arjun, Asan, and Saja in the forests of eastern India.

Because the worms are semi-wild and feed on different trees, the silk they produce is coarser and heavier than mulberry silk. It also has a naturally golden-brown or beige color that doesn't fully bleach out, giving Tussar its signature natural hue.

Where is Tussar Silk Produced?

Tussar silk production is concentrated in:

• Jharkhand: Especially in the Hazaribagh district, which produces some of the finest Tussar. The state accounts for over 70% of India's raw Tussar production.

• Bihar: Bhagalpur in Bihar is famous for its Bhagalpuri silk, which is Tussar silk woven in distinctive Bhagalpur patterns.

• West Bengal: Bishnupur and Murshidabad districts produce Tussar silk sarees with traditional Bengali motifs.

• Chhattisgarh and Andhra Pradesh: Smaller but significant Tussar weaving centers.

Browse our traditional weaving sarees and tussar sarees for sarees inspired by these regional traditions.

5 Types of Tussar Silk Sarees

1. Plain Tussar Saree

The simplest form: undyed or naturally colored Tussar in its characteristic golden-beige shade. Often finished with a simple woven border. These are worn as daily sarees or for simple ceremonies. They improve with age, becoming softer and more lustrous with each wash.

2. Printed Tussar Saree

Tussar's slightly rough texture takes printing beautifully. Block-printed, screen-printed, and digital-printed Tussar sarees are among the most popular in contemporary Indian fashion. The natural beige base gives printed designs a warm, earthy quality unlike anything printed on white polyester or cotton.

3. Embroidered Tussar Saree

Tussar is a popular base for kantha embroidery (Bengal), zardozi work, and chikankari. The slightly rough texture gives needlework a firm base to rest against. Tussar with kantha stitch is especially beloved: the bright thread work pops against the natural golden background.

4. Gicha Tussar

'Gicha' refers to raw Tussar silk woven from slightly broken or irregular cocoons. The fabric has a distinctly textured, nubby surface. It's more affordable than smooth Tussar and has a very organic, artisanal look that's popular in contemporary fashion.

5. Bhagalpuri Silk Saree

From Bhagalpur, Bihar, this variety uses Tussar silk and is famous for its natural sheen and distinctive weaving patterns. Bhagalpuri sarees are among the most widely exported Indian handloom textiles and are popular in both Indian and international markets.

How is Tussar Silk Different from Mulberry Silk?

• Texture: Tussar is coarser and has a slightly rough texture. Mulberry silk is smooth and fine.

• Color: Tussar has a natural golden-beige color. Mulberry silk is typically white and takes dyes in brighter colors.

• Weight: Tussar is heavier per yard than most mulberry silks.

• Drape: Tussar has a stiffer drape. It holds pleats well and doesn't cling to the body.

• Environmental impact: Tussar uses semi-wild silkworms and doesn't require intensive cultivation, making it more sustainable.

• Price: Tussar is generally more affordable than pure mulberry Kanjivaram or Banarasi silk.

How to Style a Tussar Silk Saree?

For Daily Wear

A plain or lightly printed Tussar saree with a simple cotton blouse is perfect for daytime. The natural beige tones work with most skin tones and pair well with earthy jewelry like oxidized silver or wooden beads. Very comfortable for long days as Tussar's natural protein fiber breathes well.

For Office and Semi-Formal Occasions

Choose a solid-colored or subtly printed Tussar in deep navy, forest green, brick red, or deep plum. Pair with a contrasting blouse in silk or cotton. Tussar drapes naturally into clean lines, making it look polished and professional.

For Cultural Events and Festivals

An embroidered Tussar with kantha stitching or a Tussar with a Madhubani or Warli painted border is perfect for cultural events. These combinations are distinctly Indian and show appreciation for traditional crafts. Check our silk sarees and traditional sarees for similar options.

6 Ways to Care for Tussar Silk Sarees

1. Hand wash in cold water: Mild soap or shampoo. Do not use harsh detergents.
2. First wash separately: Tussar can bleed color slightly on the first wash.
3. Do not wring: Squeeze gently and roll in a towel to remove excess water.
4.  Dry in shade: Direct sunlight can fade the natural golden color.
5. Iron while slightly damp: Medium heat from the reverse side.
6. Store in cotton cloth: Avoid plastic bags. Natural fibers need air circulation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Tussar silk good for summer?

Yes. Tussar silk is a natural protein fiber that breathes better than synthetic fabrics and better than heavy mulberry silks. The slightly coarser texture allows for better air circulation. It's warmer than cotton but comfortable in dry heat.

How do I identify real Tussar silk?

Real Tussar has a natural golden-beige color that can't be fully bleached out. It has a slightly coarse, nubbly texture when you run your fingers across it. The burn test: Tussar silk burns slowly like hair (it's a protein fiber), leaving a crushable ash and smelling slightly like burning hair. Synthetic 'Tussar' burns quickly and leaves melted plastic residue.

Can Tussar silk sarees be dry-cleaned?

Yes, and for expensive or embroidered Tussar, dry cleaning is recommended, especially for the first few cleans. After the color has settled, gentle hand washing at home is fine for most Tussar sarees.

Is Bhagalpuri silk the same as Tussar silk?

Yes. Bhagalpuri silk is Tussar silk woven in the Bhagalpur style. The terms are often used interchangeably. Bhagalpur is just the most famous center of Tussar weaving in India.